design

First, we will design what kind of iron kettle we will make. Next, we draw a full-size drawing, copy it onto a 1.5 mm thick iron plate, and cut it out to create a sawn template.

Making a mold

Using a tool called a ``gyu'' to make an unglazed mold that matches the size of the iron kettle, the mold is made by mixing foundry sand and clay liquid and turning a grinding board.

Pattern stamping

The pattern is stamped on the sawn body shape while it is still waiting for it to dry. Each piece is stamped one by one using a brass rod with a conical tip.

Mold assembly

The core is the mold that goes inside the outer mold, which is divided into upper and lower parts, the torso mold and the butt mold. Assemble the mold by inserting the core held in one hand into the body mold that lies on its side, and then covering it with the butt mold. The gap between the outer mold and the core is the thickness of the iron kettle.

Casting

Iron is melted in an electric furnace at 1,400℃ to 1,500℃, then poured into a mold using a ladle called a ``yugumi.''

Mold removal/sand removal

The cast iron hardens and is pulled out of the mold. Then, remove the sand from the core and remove the casting burrs.

Coloring

Heat an iron kettle to approximately 250℃ and use a ``kugobrush'' to bake lacquer on its surface. Furthermore, apply ``Ohaguro'' or ``Chajiru'' evenly at a temperature of about 100℃ to 150℃. Then, carefully wipe it off several times with a well-drained cloth.

Complete

The iron kettle is carefully inspected after being wiped clean, and the kettle is completed with a glaze.